Wednesday 21 August 2024

We were packed and ready to roll. After the obligatory departure selfie we had breakfast at the lounge.  We crossed paths with Karl and Kelly on their layover to Osaka. Uneventful 9 hour flight with snacks galore. Finally landed in Tokyo at Narita Airport, we practiced waiting in line while we cleared border and customs before boarding the train to our Pod Hotel Nine Hours Hamamatsucho. Our midnight ramen excursion kicked off our journey. 

Thursday 22 August 2024

We faced a monsoon on our way to the Roppongi bookshop. Unfazed, we improvised and stumbled upon a summer festival at Roppongi Hills Centre, wandering the shops as the rain raged on. Once it cleared we continued our adventure in Harajuku, forgoing the Hedgehog Cafe for ramen. Exploring the lesser-known alleyways, we chanced upon Gillis favorite sticker shop, and even found a Portland themed bar. We eventually returned to the Pods to dry our feet. Our escapades continued in Shinjuku, where we sipped beer and marveled at Godzilla and tried to find a city view in the Tokyo Kabukicho Tower. We ventured down Piss Alley, savoring meat skewers and chilled sake with our new friends, Stephano and Valentina from Milan. We also indulged in exquisite Japanese whiskey and Kokuryu sweet sake at a nearby basement haunt. We managed to chalk up 20,000 steps before midnight. The long train ride home couldn’t dampen our excitement for the bullet train to Osaka the next day.

Friday 23 August 2024

Hopped the bullet train from Tokyo to Osaka and sat on the right side hoping to catch a glimpse of Mt Fuji, but the clouds and rain had other plans. Arrived quickly to Osaka and met up with Karl and Kelly. Navigated the labyrinth of the Namba underground before dropping off our bags and heading to Dontonbori for lunch and braved the chaos of Don Quijote, the famous discount store. Back to the hotel to freshen up and escape the heat. Then, we headed to Osaka Aquarium for a relaxing afternoon admiring the marine life by night. Glad we did, only a small crowd late in the day. A bit disappointed the Great Barrier Reef exhibit was closed, but there were plenty of other fascinating creatures to see. The whale shark is incredible to watch and Gillis is fascinated by Garden Eels now. We settled on Yayoiken, a simple dinner, and an early night.  Chilled evening in the hotel wrapped up another day.

Saturday 24 August 2024

We embarked on a scenic train ride through the mountains, bound for Nara. Upon arrival, we were warmly greeted by hundreds of friendly Sika Deer, who eagerly bowed and devoured the crackers we purchased for them. The deer roam freely and are revered by the locals. We continued our journey, stopping at the Todai-ji Museum to learn about the temple’s history and admire ancient artifacts. Next, we visited the Todaiji Kondo Temple, home to one of Japan’s largest bronze Buddha statues. Lit incense and candles and made wishes to the gods. We finally found Goshuinchou, a treasured red stamp notebook used to collect temple and shrine stamps, and watched beautiful calligraphy for our temple goshuin. To get our of the heat, we indulged in sweet refreshments and the air con back at the museum before exploring the enchanting forest, leading us to the Kasuga Taisha Shinto Shrine. The shrine boasted stunning lanterns and an ancient sacred tree. Lunch was a refreshing serving of cold udon noodles, sitting by the gentle stream in the cool forest shade. As thunder rumbled in the distance, we made our way back and immersed ourselves in the museum’s ancient collections, including 6th-century local artifacts. We had a delightful conversation with a local man and his son, who were eager to practice their English skills, while waiting for the train. We concluded our day with a satisfying meal at Yakiniku Saburo restaurant in Dontonbori, savoring delicious tongue, intestines, chicken, and beef. The marinated beef was particularly delectable. To cap off the night, we indulged in tanghulu, a sweet dessert of candied fruit sticks.

Sunday 25 August 2024

Started the day with a super early ride on the bullet train to Hiroshima! Took the Miyajima Ferry to Itsukushima Island and explored charming streets until we found a cozy cafe. Sipped on a seasonal apricot soda—so sweet and refreshing! Then we hiked up to the Itsukushima Jinja Tahoto Pagoda for some stunning views. Back down to the famous Itsukushima Jinja shrine, with its iconic floating Torii Gate. Tried our luck with fortunes; mine wasn’t great, but I made a wish and tied it to the posts for better luck! Next, we visited the Daigan-ji Buddhist temple. Then marveled at the Treasure Hall’s treasures, including a 12th-century paper fan and ornate scrolls. Learned about the love story behind the Venus flower basket, a sea sponge, and two prawns. Added to our goshuincho with beautiful calligraphy stamps from the shrines. Feeling peckish, we indulged in the biggest, juiciest oysters, coffee ice cream, and momiji cakes while strolling back to the ferry. Back in Hiroshima, we enjoyed some delicious Okonomiyaki for lunch, then braved the afternoon sun to visit the Hiroshima memorial site and museum—powerful and moving. A sorrowful reminder to the world of the devastation of atomic warfare. Finally, we took the tram and train back to Osaka, grabbed a light dinner, and crashed after an action-packed day!

Monday 26 August 2024

Today was a delightful mix of relaxation and exploration! We kicked off with a leisurely sleep-in, then enjoyed a perfect combo of coffee and books in the Namba Walk, a shopping strip stretching a whole kilometer underground! Ventured out into the heat of Dontonbori to hunt for the legendary Kuidaore Taro, drummer boy, but only stumbled upon the souvenir shop. No worries, though! Late in the day we hopped on the subway to Osaka Castle, where we navigated the moats and stone walls to reach the majestic fortress soaring above the city. First stop was the Hokoku Shrine to pay our respects, then we whisked our way up to the castle’s top floors via the elevator, skipping the stairs. Each of the eight levels featured incredible tales of Toyotomi Hideyoshi and the castle’s past. Wrapped up the day wandering the castle grounds as the sun set, then finally hit the curry house at Namba Station—a spot we’d been eyeing for days. I ended the evening with a relaxing Thai massage before bed. What a day… was meant to be a quieter day but still managed over 17,000 steps!

Tuesday 27 August 2024

Time to check out of Osaka and off to Kyoto! We tried to hop on the Kyo-Train Garaku (pretty scenic train), but turns out it’s a weekend-only ride. So, we took the regular train instead, enjoying the scenic view of rural towns. Arrived in Kyoto and, after what felt like a somewhat epic trek with our bags in the sweltering heat, we finally reached our charming 3-story AirBnB townhouse in a cozy suburb, was only about 600m walk. It’s a great spot – just a quick stroll to the Kamo River and the city. Hunted down lunch, found a gem of a spot where we felt like giants at the petite table and chairs, and enjoyed some refreshing cold udon soup. Picked up snacks and drinks from Lawson’s Mart and then chilled out while the torrential rain poured down. Luckily the typhoon seems to be staying down south. The river was roaring, and both people and ducks were making the most of the cool evening by the water. Dinner was a blast at Ramen Wars—watched a ramen maestro work her magic at the counter, juggling boiling noodles, juicy meat, and steaming bowls. Wrapped up with a fun detour for rice cream at a whiskey bar and, on the way back, got excited we thought we saw an otter but mistook it for a nutria (water rat). Enjoying the slower pace of Kyoto.

Wednesday 28 August 2024

Kicked off the day with coffee and toasted sandwiches, then stumbled upon a delightful souvenir shop with the friendliest ladies. Beat the heat at the house, then ventured out in the afternoon to the bamboo forest. Riding right behind the train drivers was cool on the way! A taxi whisked us to Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple, and starting at the top of the hill was a genius move. The moss-covered statues everywhere were adorable! Hiked downhill to Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple, with epic views of gravestones and the forest. Grabbed a quick bite and a drink, then explored Rakushisha, where 17th-century haiku master Mukai Kyorai’s poems are displayed in ink and stone. Snapped pics of lotus flowers at Ogura Pond, climbed the hill at Jōjakkōji Temple in the refreshing rain, and marveled at the mossy gardens. The Arashiyama Bamboo Forest was stunning, especially with a kimono-clad family posing for photos. Unlike Karl and Kelly’s previous visit, it was less crowded and more enjoyable. We ended the day with a tram and train ride back to the city, where we played our Side Quest of rock-paper-scissors to choose our dinner spot. Dumplings were off the menu, but we enjoyed a mix of meats (including chicken feet) and rice. One of the best days ever—cool, serene, and absolutely beautiful!

Thursday 29 August 2024

We ditched Karl left him at home and, fueled by a quick coffee and toast, Kelly dashed off to the Kyoto City of Art to catch the Takashi Murakami exhibition, while Gillis and I set off for the Heian Shrine. The gardens were a vibrant green in the rain, and would be be jaw-droppingly stunning in autumn or spring, but they were still a peaceful retreat. Next up was the Gekkeikan Ōkura Sake Museum, where we dived into a sake tour and tasting. It was a blast learning about the brewing process, deciphering sake labels, and discovering how rice polishing affects flavor. We sampled four local sakes at the museum and then indulged in seven more paired with food. Bonus: we even tasted a couple of sakes that are perfect with sushi. We splurged on bottles, including some unpasteurized sake that we can’t get back in Australia. Dinner was at a teppanyaki joint, where we had a classic tourist moment trying to communicate with the sweet granny running the show. She gave us a gentle scolding for how we handled our okonomiyaki and messed with the sauce too soon. The evening ended with more sake and then off to bed, still buzzing from the day’s adventures.

Friday 30 August 2024

Out the door for a coffee and we set our sights on Fushimi Inari, the iconic mountainside Shinto shrine with its dazzling path of hundreds of torii gates. We tackled the 4km loop, powering through the initial crowds to hit the less-traveled, more challenging upper path. The views over Kyoto from the top were breathtaking, and we marveled at the elegant kitsune (white fox) statues. Sweaty by the summit, the cool descent was a relief, and we treated ourselves to refreshing strawberry snow ice at the bottom. Back at the house, we freshened up before heading to our Kimono and tea ceremony experience. After picking out our kimonos from a stunning selection, we went upstairs to the teahouse with Mori. She guided us through the serene art of the tea ceremony, sharing its rich history and the graceful process of purifying the tea tools with a fukusa, silk cloth. We learned how to prepare the matcha with a chasen whisk, the proper etiquette and gestures of drinking, and how to show appreciation for the tools and the server. We even had a mini photo shoot in the gardens before returning our kimonos and heading out for dinner. We found a cozy spot with a set meal that let us enjoy a variety of delicious dishes. Tomorrow, we’re off to Gifu, keeping an eye on Typhoon Shanshan, which is creeping along south of us and has caused bullet train suspensions. Here’s hoping it doesn’t cause too much trouble as we travel!

Saturday 31 August 2024

Today was an adventure from start to finish! We were on our way to Gifu with plans for four local train transfers when we hit a major snag: the typhoon had halted all trains at Maibara due to high rainfall. After a bit of waiting, we managed to find a solution with the guidance of a helpful train conductor. Our new route took us back to Nagoya and then to Gifu, making for a journey that stretched to about five hours—three hours longer than expected zig zagging across the countryside.

But the extra time was worth it! We finally arrived at the beautiful Ishikin Ryokan, right on the Nagara River. They had our names on the board, and welcomed us enthusiastically, even carrying our very heavy bags. We took a late afternoon stroll to find a bite to eat, and then relaxed with sake by the river as the sun set enjoying the river running fast. A little walk over the bridge led us to some delicious ice cream. When we returned we dressed in Yukata (robe), ready for the onsen experience ending the day with a soothing soak in the hot water.

Sunday 1 September 2024

We started the day with a refreshing soak in the onsen before diving into a delicious breakfast spread. We even got to cook our own sweet fish and sausage! The morning was all about relaxation—reading and unwinding. We fueled up with coffee at a jazz café before setting off to explore Gifu’s history.

Our first stop was the Shōbō-ji (Gifu Giant Buddha), only about a meter shorter than Nara’s famous statue but with a more up close and intimate feel and fewer visitors. We then split up: Gillis headed to the Gifu City Historical Museum, while the rest of us ventured to the Nawa Museum of Insects. The collection was amazing, the iridescent butterflies were the highlight for me.

Next, we took the Kinkazan Rope Way up Mount Kinka. At the summit, we enjoyed Squirrel Village, home to Formosan squirrels that escaped during the 1936 Great Japan Exposition. We climbed a bit further to Gifu Castle, soaking in the history and stunning views.

We strolled back through Friendship Park and took another relaxing bath before dinner. Our meal was a stunning 10-course feast, with a view of the Cormorant Fisherman working the river. I gave eating all of the sweetfish a go but just not my thing eating the bones and all! But really enjoyed the plum wines and the other courses. After a short walk to digest, we headed to bed, happy the weather cleared up for a lovely day!

Monday 2 September 2024

We woke up, enjoyed another delicious breakfast, and got ready for the day. After packing up and checking out, we strolled over to the charming Migi Coffee Stand for a caffeine fix, then explored the Cormorant Fishing Museum. We were fascinated by a video showcasing this ancient fishing technique, a tradition that’s been around for over 1300 years and has attracted visitors since the Edo period.

We swung by the ryokan to grab our bags and hopped in a taxi to the station. It was time to say goodbye to Kelly and Karl in Nagoya after lunch and a drink – they were off to Osaka, while Gillis and I headed back to Tokyo. Despite another expectant train ride, Mt. Fuji remained elusive to the rain and clouds.

Arriving in Tokyo, we checked into the colorful Toggle Hotel, where our spacious room was decked out in vibrant green. The hotel’s unique, color-themed floors and rooms added a fun touch to our stay. We took a short walk to find a cozy little bar that seemed to be a favorite among uni students. We shared some tasty gyoza, chicken skewers, a few drinks and lots of laughs at the Pop music playing on the big screen.  Headed back for a relaxed night and a load of laundry.

Tuesday 3 September 2024

Slept in and then met up with Gillis for a coffee at a nearby café. We set off on an adventure in the rain (hoping the bees umbrella would hold up) to find English manga and stumbled upon a bunch of quirky bookshops. Our wanderings led us to Akihabara Electric Town, where we explored an enormous electronics store and even snagged an aux cable. The sheer variety of gadgets was mind-blowing!

Lunch took us to Lalaport for a bowl of ramen and to hunt down some stationary notebooks and pens. Next up was teamLab Planets and wow—what an immersive art experience! Walking barefoot through water and soaking in the blend of digital and real art was surreal. We really enjoyed the flower artwork – laying on the mirrored floor felt like floating through space.

Back at the hotel on the monorail and peak hour on the trains was a different way to see the city. We decided to indulge in sushi nearby for our final Tokyo dinner. We had a funny mix-up when we accidentally wandered into the wrong restaurant, but fate had us there and we ended up learning about how sake is poured into square cups from the friendly host and snacking on some tasty treats. Eventually, we found an amazing sushi spot where we enjoyed a chef’s special menu and the biggest glass of sake. We even sampled some “million-dollar” grapes (we’ve seen them for about $40 a bunch at the grocers) and, while they tasted like grapes, it made us appreciate how easily we get fresh produce back home. Started packing up as we gear up for our last day tomorrow.

Wednesday 4 September 2024

We started our day bright but not so early, leaving our bags at the hotel before diving into the last day of our adventure. Our first stop was the Imperial Palace National Gardens, where we had a blast exploring the lush grounds. Next, we wandered into the bustling business district, following the crowd to a cozy lunch spot where we savored some delicious Tonkatsu – crispy fried pork cutlet with tangy sesame sauce.

With a few more hours to play with, we headed over to the National Museum near Ueno Park. The artifacts were incredible, and we only scratched the surface of one building! Afterward, we hopped on trains back to the hotel to grab our bags and headed to the airport. We’re wrapping up our trip with a tasty dinner while we wait for our flight. What an amazing adventure it’s been!